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The Racecourse Ground stands a few minutes from the centre on foot. Wales played their first home international on it in 1877, which makes it the oldest international football stadium still in use anywhere in the world.

Beyond the built-up part the country opens fast. The Clwydian hills start twenty minutes west, the Dee valley the same to the south, and Chester sits twenty minutes east over the border.

Wales played their first home international at the Racecourse in 1877 and have kept coming back ever since. That unbroken run is what makes it the oldest international football ground still in use anywhere in the world, and it is a claim no other stadium can make.

It holds 13,341 and a new Kop stand is going up behind one goal. That is small by modern standards and it is the whole point of the place. A crowd that size in a tight ground can be heard all at once rather than in sections, which is why people talk about the noise.

Wrexham AFC bought the freehold of the ground on 29 June 2022, not long after the actors Ryan Reynolds and Rob McElhenney took the club over. The crowds since have included a good many people who flew in from across the Atlantic for it.

The other thing worth finding sits in the churchyard at St Giles, a few minutes away. Elihu Yale is buried there, the merchant whose gift of books and goods led a small Connecticut college to take his name in 1718.

Get to the Racecourse early on a match day. The ground is a short walk from the middle of the city and the pubs in between fill from around lunchtime. The walk down is part of the afternoon rather than a chore.

You can go up the St Giles tower on the first Saturday of the month at eleven or twelve, for five pounds. It takes about fifty minutes and places are capped at twenty, so book through the Wrexham Visitor Information Centre before you rely on it.

With no football on, the city is a good deal quieter. The market still holds its place six days a week and it is the reason most people come into the middle of Wrexham. Erddig sits on the southern edge with gardens running down into the Clywedog valley.

Chester is twenty minutes east over the border and Llangollen twenty minutes south-west. A weekend here can take in a walled city and a river valley without much driving. The Clwydian hills make a third direction if you want them.