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The village earned its living from herring until the stocks failed around the First World War. The airfield behind the headland arrived in 1940, and the range it serves still flies aircraft and drones out over the bay.

Dolwen and Dyffryn are separate coves at high tide and join into one sweep of sand as it drops, so know when the tide turns before you walk round. Dogs are kept off Dolwen from 1 May to 30 September, and Dyffryn takes them all year on a lead. The Ceredigion Coast Path runs straight through, east towards Tresaith and Llangrannog and west towards Mwnt.

Four miles west of Aberporth, on a green hill above a steep-sided cove, stands a small whitewashed church with no village anywhere near it.

Holy Cross at Mwnt, Eglwys y Grog in Welsh, dates from about the thirteenth century, though there was almost certainly something on the spot long before that. Its font is said to be cut from Preseli stone, from the hills that supplied the Stonehenge bluestones.

It stood on a pilgrim route. Pilgrims walking south to St Davids used it as a chapel on the way, as did those heading north for Bardsey Island off the tip of the Llŷn. It served sailors putting in along this exposed shore.

The hill behind it is called Foel y Mwnt, and mwnt is the Welsh for a mound. That is where the place gets its name. The climb to the top takes about ten minutes.

Today Mwnt is looked after by the National Trust, with a car park, toilets and a kiosk above the beach. It holds a Green Coast Award again in 2026, judged on clean seas and unspoilt surroundings. The cove is deep and steep-sided, so it stays sheltered when the open beaches are not. The way down is a steep flight of steps.

It is one of the best places on this coast for dolphins. Around 250 bottlenose dolphins live in Cardigan Bay, and from the headland you can often watch them without going out in a boat.

Back in the village, a week with a kitchen works because the shopping is close. The village shop covers bread, milk and the daily bits, and Cardigan is twenty minutes south for a proper supermarket, butchers and bakers. Crab and lobster are landed along this coast through the season.

The two coves below the village are separate beaches for most of the tide and one long stretch of sand at the bottom of it. If you mean to walk round the rocks from Dolwen to Dyffryn rather than back up through the village, look up the tide first. Dogs are kept off Dolwen from 1 May to 30 September, and Dyffryn takes them all year on a lead.

The Ceredigion Coast Path comes through the village itself, so you can walk out along the cliffs and back without moving the car.

The rest of the coast is on the doorstep. Tresaith is a mile east, where a river tips off the cliff onto the beach. Llangrannog lies beyond it under its rock stack, and Penbryn sits between them at the bottom of a wooded lane.