More About Llanelli
Llanelly House, on the corner by the parish church, was built in 1714 for Sir Thomas Stepney, the local member of parliament at the time. It is one of the finest Georgian town houses in Wales. It stood derelict and close to demolition before it was restored and opened to visitors.
The Wetland Centre lies out on the estuary at the eastern end, five hundred acres of lagoon and reedbed with hides looking over the sand. Carmarthen is half an hour north, and Swansea and the Gower are twenty minutes east.
Llanelli was called Tinopolis, and it earned the name. By the end of the nineteenth century there were around twenty tinplate works in and around the town. South-west Wales was turning out roughly nine tenths of the tinplate used in the world, and Llanelli was the middle of it.
Three quarters of it went to America. In 1900 about five thousand people worked in the trade, in a town of twenty thousand. Almost every household here had somebody in the works. Then the American tariffs came, and the yards went quiet.
The town made more than tin. Llanelly Pottery worked here from 1839 until 1922, and its hand-painted cockerel plates still turn up all over the county. The works also pressed tinplate into saucepans for the whole of Britain. Supporters of rival rugby clubs used that to mock Llanelli, waving saucepans and calling it a town of tinsmiths. Llanelli took the insult and made it the badge.
Sospan Fach means little saucepan, and it is still the song the crowd sings. There are saucepans bolted to the tops of the posts at Parc y Scarlets, which is the only ground in world rugby you can say that about. The Scarlets play there every year from September through to May.
The rest of the town has turned outward to the estuary. Thirteen miles of coast path now run west along ground that once held the works and the slag tips, and you can cycle the length of it in an afternoon.
Parc Howard, up the hill, is free to walk into, and its museum holds the biggest collection of Llanelly pottery in public hands anywhere. The park around it is open all year, and the town centre is ten minutes downhill from the gates.
Llanelli accommodation — your questions answered
- What is the Wetland Centre?
- A five-hundred-acre reserve on the estuary, run by the Wildfowl & Wetlands Trust, with hides over the lagoons and a boardwalk out across the reeds. More than sixty thousand birds come in over the winter, and there are Caribbean flamingos in the collection all year. Around fifty thousand people visit each year.
- Can you walk or cycle along the coast?
- Yes, and it is the best thing here. The Millennium Coastal Path runs from Bynea in the east to Pembrey Country Park in the west, thirteen miles of it. It is flat and surfaced the whole way, with the estuary on one side and the Gower across it.
- What is there for a rainy day?
- Parc Howard Museum is free and has the largest public collection of Llanelly pottery anywhere. It opens Wednesday to Sunday and is shut on Mondays and Tuesdays, so check before you set out. Llanelly House, on the corner by St Elli’s church, runs tours of a 1714 town house. The dry ski slope and toboggan run at Pembrey are both outdoors.
- How far is the Gower?
- Twenty minutes east across the estuary to the start of it, and about forty-five to Rhossili at the far end. Gower was the first Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty in Britain, and Three Cliffs Bay and Oxwich are both an easy morning out.
- How much does accommodation in Llanelli cost?
- Listed from about £75 a night, with most between £80 and £200. It is consistently better value than the coast west of here, and it is close enough to the Gower to use as a base for it.
Llanelli was the middle of the tinplate trade once, and it has turned that whole shore into thirteen miles of coast path. Rooms and whole places start around £75. The Gower is twenty minutes east and Carmarthen half an hour north. Cefn Sidan and Pembrey sit at the western end of the coast path.