More About Cardiff and the Vale
Cardiff only became a city because of what came down the valleys behind it. The docks that shipped it are the Bay now. The castle in the middle of town has a Roman wall at the bottom, a Norman keep on the mound and a Victorian fantasy on the side. There are seven Victorian arcades as well, the densest run left in Britain.
Then it stops. Fifteen miles west the Vale is farmland and market towns, and the Glamorgan Heritage Coast is flat grey limestone laid in shelves with fossils in it. Cowbridge is the town in the middle. Penarth sits on the edge of the city with its pier, and Barry has the island and the sands.
There is a building in Mount Stuart Square, down in the old docks, where the price of the world's coal was decided.
The Coal Exchange went up between 1884 and 1888 to a design by Edwin Seward. For a stretch of years, what was agreed on its trading floor set what coal cost, and not just in Cardiff. That is the part worth holding on to. Cardiff was not simply a place that shipped a lot of coal; it was the place that priced it.
The story usually told about the building is that the world's first million-pound cheque was signed in it. It may well be true, but the date moves about: 1901 in some tellings, 1904 in others. Enjoy it as a story rather than a fact.
The trade itself is not in any doubt, and neither is the ending. The Exchange closed in 1958. Cardiff's coal exports stopped completely in 1964.
The building came through it. It is a hotel now, reopened in 2017 after a forty-million-pound restoration. The room where the world's coal was priced is still standing and still in use, a short walk from the Senedd.
Half an hour west of all that, the Vale of Glamorgan carries on as though none of it ever happened. It is farmland, a market town at Cowbridge, and a limestone coast laid down in flat grey shelves.
Which is the useful thing about this corner of Wales: the capital and the quiet bit are close enough together that you do not have to pick one.
Where to stay: hotels in Cardiff & the Vale of Glamorgan · B&Bs and guest houses
Cardiff & Vale accommodation — your questions answered
- What's the best way around Cardiff Bay?
- The Aquabus runs down the Taff from Bute Park to Cardiff Bay, past the Principality Stadium. It takes about twenty-five minutes and beats driving.
- Where's the best of the coast?
- The Glamorgan Heritage Coast, from Ogmore round to Aberthaw. Dunraven Bay, Nash Point and the St Donats cliffs show off layered limestone and fossil beds, with the Somerset coast visible across the Bristol Channel. Those cliffs come apart slowly, which is why the fossils keep arriving on the sand, so keep away from the bottom of them.
- Are there cottages with hot tubs?
- Yes — rural cottages and lodges in the Vale often have private hot tubs; the listings say which.
- Good dog walks?
- Penarth's promenade and the Lavernock cliff walks welcome dogs year-round, and the Merthyr Mawr dunes are a treat.
- Where's the best place to stay in Cardiff and the Vale?
- The city centre and Cardiff Bay are the obvious bases — walkable, and closest to the castle, the stadium and the restaurants. Penarth is a few minutes away by train, with its Victorian pier. Cowbridge is the market town in the middle of the Vale, and Barry and Porthcawl are the seaside choices on the Heritage Coast.
- How much does accommodation in Cardiff and the Vale cost?
- Most is listed at about £70 to £100 a night, opening from around £32. Hotel and B&B rooms sit lowest and the bigger cottages highest. Cardiff rates rise sharply for a rugby international or a stadium concert, so book those weekends early.
You can have a city break and a coast walk on the same day here. Cardiff has the castle, the stadium and the bay. Cowbridge, Barry and Porthcawl are all a short drive west, with the Glamorgan Heritage Coast below them. Barry is on the train from Cardiff Central; Porthcawl has a station at Pyle a few minutes inland, and Llantwit Major is on the Vale line. You can also search across Wales.
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Towns in Cardiff & the Vale of Glamorgan: Barry · Llantwit Major · Bridgend · Cardiff · Cowbridge · Porthcawl
Nearby areas: Swansea & Gower · South Wales