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The road in comes round the north of the island, and once you are here the going is slow and the lanes are narrow. That is rather the point. This is the quiet end of Anglesey, a long way in feel from the bridges and the ferry.

Llaneilian sits in the fields east of the town, a church and a scatter of houses above a cove. Beyond it Point Lynas runs out to sea, and the cliff path goes right round the headland.

St Eilian's is one of the best-preserved medieval churches in North Wales, and it is Grade I listed. The oldest stonework is in the tower and goes back to about 1175. A small chapel called Capel Caswallon joins it by a passage off the sanctuary.

Inside is a rood screen of 1496, the carved partition that runs across the middle of the church. Painted on it is a skeleton with hoofed feet, under the words Colyn angau yw pechod: sin is the sting of death. A carved chest dated 1667, the Cyff Eilian, took the offerings pilgrims brought to the spring below the church, Ffynnon Eilian.

Point Lynas, the headland beyond, has a Liverpool story of its own. From 1766 ships making for the Mersey needed somewhere on Anglesey to take on a local pilot to steer them in, and the Liverpool Pilotage Service chose this point. The first pilots kept watch from a farmhouse.

After 1779 they showed two oil lamps behind polished reflectors. In 1835 the Mersey Docks and Harbour Board put up the low white lighthouse that stands there now, at a cost of £1,165. It passed in 1973 to Trinity House, which runs the lighthouses of England and Wales.

You can walk the whole headland and there is nothing to pay. The circuit runs about four and a half miles, and most people take two and a half hours over it. You cannot go inside the tower, but the old keepers' cottages beside it take guests, within the same castellated wall.

Porth Eilian is the beach below, small and sandy with rock at either end. It faces away from the open sea on three sides, which is why divers and kayakers use it. There are no lifeguards anywhere on Anglesey, summer or winter, so anyone going in is on their own judgement.

There is a slipway, toilets and free parking above the shore, and you walk down from there. The cliffs between Porth Eilian and Point Lynas are good for birds: choughs and ravens work the ledges, oystercatchers pick over the rocks below, and gannets pass offshore. You often see seals and harbour porpoises from the point, so it is worth carrying binoculars.

The Anglesey Coastal Path is walked in numbered sections, and section four runs from Amlwch to Moelfre through Porth Eilian. You can pick it up at the port and walk out as far as suits you, then turn back, or leave a second car at the far end. It keeps to the cliff nearly the whole way.